Asparagus is a remarkable vegetable: it’s low in calories, high in fibre, boosts the immune system, and produces chemicals that heighten sexual pleasure. No wonder it’s considered one of nature’s super foods. Lucky for us then that English asparagus is the best in the world.
The English asparagus season is very short, only lasting throughout May & June. Our cooler climate ensures a slow growth, which produces an intense flavour & delicate texture. Throughout the season I visit growers in Faversham, Kent, to buy new season asparagus for my pub, The Guildford Arms. Harvested by hand each morning the asparagus is trimmed, graded and carefully packed to avoid damaging the tender spears. This is a labour intensive operation and explains why, compared to other vegetables asparagus is relatively expensive. Fortunately you don’t have to drive to Faversham for fresh asparagus as the Creaky Shed on Royal Hill and the Blackheath farmers’ market have a good supply.
Choose asparagus that has firm, bright green stalks, without any white on the base. The tip should be tight and the spear relatively straight; a pronounced curve is a sign that it has spent a little too long out of the ground. Spankingly fresh asparagus can be eaten raw; otherwise it should be boiled or steamed for a few minutes until tender, but not soft. It is important to cook the asparagus in plenty of boiling water. This will prevent the temperature dropping significantly when you add the asparagus, ensuring it cooks quickly and retains its bright green colour and nutrients. Asparagus can also be grilled to produce a wonderful smoky aroma. When I serve asparagus I like to use simple accompaniments, such as hollandaise sauce, lemon butter or seasoned olive oil, as they don’t overpower the natural flavour.
On the piscine front, Julian at the Fishmonger on Circus Street tells me that fish are in fine form right now as most have come out of roe. Seasonal treats include brill, red mullet and some fantastic octopus.
Grilled English Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce
- Gently melt 250g of unsalted butter. Skim off any foam from the top.
- Whisk 2 egg yolks with 1 teaspoon of water over boiling water until thick and pale.
- In a very slow trickle gradually whisk in the melted butter (don’t add the milky liquid at the bottom), adding a drop of hot water if it looks too thick. Season and add lemon juice to taste.
- Trim and peel the ends of the asparagus and blanche in boiling water for 2 minutes. Refresh in ice cold water and dry. Heat a grill pan until very hot. Oil and season asparagus and grill until nicely charred, turn and grill the other side. Serve with the hollandaise sauce.
Seasonal Ingredients
Vegetables: Asparagus, avocados, broad beans, sprouting broccoli, spring cabbages, new season carrots,
Fruit: Rhubarb, gooseberries (late May)
Fish: Crab, salmon, sea & river trout, haddock, mackerel, brill, red mullet, octopus
Meat: New Season lamb, veal