September is a great month for oysters. The warmer summer months have passed, the spawning period is over and the waters are colder. Juicy, plump and spankingly fresh, oysters are at their peak.
Eating oysters is a uniquely invigorating experience. No other food conjures up the essence of the sea as potently. As you take it into your mouth you are hit by a briny rush, it can be quite intoxicating. Its mineral elements are evident and you can clearly taste zinc, calcium, copper and magnesium. This really is food for grownups.
Oysters must be alive when you buy them so buy from a reputable source. I can thoroughly recommend Julian at the fishmongers on Circus Street. His Rock and Fin de Clair oysters are sensational. If you are feeling adventurous you can also buy some Sea Urchins from him, but that’s another column.
Shucking oysters is a bit of an ordeal, but I am sure your fishmonger would be only too happy to help; either by opening them, or with a quick demonstration. You will need a strong oyster knife and a bit of patience. To help preserve the precious juices you must store your oysters on a tray in the refrigerator with the flat side up, keeping them covered with a damp cloth.
I prefer my oysters au natural but if an intense marine hit is not to your taste a little sweet and sour Chinese sauce is a great way to balance the powerful flavour.
Native Oysters with Sweet & Sour Shallots
- Finely dice 2 medium shallots. Bring a ½ cup of rice wine vinegar and a ½ cup of caster sugar to the boil. Add the shallots and cool completely. Once cool stir in some chopped coriander and spoon a little over each opened oyster. Eat immediately.
Seasonal Ingredients
Vegetables: Wild mushrooms, Sweet corn, Tomatoes
Fruit: Blackberries, plums, greengages, raspberries
Fish: Eel, mussels, native oysters
Meat: Goose, rabbit, partridge, mallard